Himalaya
16 May 2022
The context : Nims incredible feats, press about him, the records
When Nirmal Purja, then an unkown climber to the community, declared his intention to climb all 14 8000ers peaks within a year, initial reactions from public, other climbers and media was rather incredulous. I include myself in the early critics . Then, the former gurkha and SAS soldier, showed to the World his strength, his sharp focus and his incredible leadership. He climbed the 14x8000 in about six month, and the last one was K2, in Winter - the last 8000ers never climbed in the cold Karakorum season.
25 January 2022
Soon to be published on CLIMBING MAGAZINE !
16 December 2020
02 March 2020
I don’t like the Mountains: I’ve lost too many friends, up there
Denis Urubko - Translation Federico Bernardi with the collaboration of .. some Russian friends
Denis for russianclimb.com
I’d seen a lot of speculation in recent times, lot of people talked about me … “blah blah blah” ; they do it to promote themselves.
17 December 2019
THE PERFECT ROUTE
The book : Review
“The Perfect Way / Nanga Parbat : Mummery Spur” is the posthumous book by Daniele Nardi, written with Alessandra Carati (writer, editor and screenwriter) released in November 2019 for Einaudi , available only in italian edition.
The tragic death of the italian mountaineer and his English partner Tom Ballard at the end of February 2019 on the Mummery Spur of Nanga Parbat, has transformed what was to be the story of a long journey towards a dream, into an intimate autobiography, full of self-criticism, sincere and conscious, raw in the contradictions and bitter in the narrative of conflicts and recriminations with others ; at the same time, full of an unstoppable passion, full of love for his wife, friendship, esteem and respect towards the mountaineers with whom Daniele Nardi shared challenging climbs, successes and failures. A story full of falls and subsequent redemptions, against adversity far more fearsome than some Himalayan wall : diseases, both physical as psychic. All of this, narrated between mountaineering feats of increasing thickness, maybe not outstanding but often in remote environments, with real exploration, especially on less famous but iconic and difficult peaks between 6000 or 7000 meters, both in Karakorum as in Himalaya.
27 November 2019
This article was first published in English for Rock And Ice Magazine :
https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/nims-purja-and-the-kuwaiti-flag-on-ama-dablam/
15 April 2019
An ambitious acclimatization goal
Adam Bielecki e Felix Berg aim to establish a new route on Annapurna NW Face .
The polish/german duo is well known also for the very 1st route up Gasherbrum II West Face, in 2018.
Adam just released this statement, regarding their acclimatization goal :
“At last we can see our first goal - Langtang Lirung 7227 m. The local people, when they hear we want to climb it, react with laughter or disbelief . When we talk with them we slowly realize how serious our aclimatisation summit is. [..] the last ascent took place on 1995. The owner of our hotel promised that if we climb it we can drink for free all the alcohol he has in his restaurant "
20 February 2019
K2: a Fort for Txikon, reinforcements for the Russians and the wait for good weather
The two expedition on the K2 do not have any kind of human contact or technical exchange. A pity but it was predictable.
The abysmal differences in strategy, as well as cultural and personal ones, have become widely manifest in the last 20 days, when the action on the mountain has been reduced to the minimum due to the continuous bad weather.
28 January 2019
K2
As expected and written in the previous update, Alex Txikon’s team has moved on the Abruzzi Spur route, where is already in action the Russian-Kyrgyz-Kazakh team .
Although Txikon had clearly written that he would have return to check the East wall (and the way of the Americans), the day after the facts showed that he had already decided not to return there, and suddenly the Basque declared “that the mountain was discharging all the avalanches on that side [East, ndR] and that the traverse [to rejoin the Abruzzi, above 7500,ndR] was too dangerous “.
14 January 2019
Nanga Parbat : Mummery Spur, a brief history
Albert Frederick Mummery, defined by Hermann Buhl (who became the first giant of the 8000 Pakistani 8000), “one of the greatest alpinists of all time”, was perhaps too far ahead of his time: his attempt, the first ever, to climb an 8000, occurred in the Summer 1895, along with 3 other British alpinists and 2 carriers. A small team, “by fair means” (with loyal means), a forerunner of the alpine style. Mummery first attempted to climb along that central Spur, apparently reaching the 6100 meters, and then disappearing forever, together with the porters, in an attempt to transfer along the Rakhiot slope, to look for another access to the mountain.
28 November 2018
Content not available in English, sorry
06 November 2018
Himalaya
Pumori , October 25 2018
The Romanian trio made up of alpinists Romeo Popa, Zsolt Torok and Teofil Vlad has opened a new route on the South East wall of the Pumori, the iconic 7161 meter peak that overlooks the Everest Circus.
new route - pumori SE ( Romica Popa, Zsolt Torok and Teofil Vlad )
The new route, very cool for logic and sustained difficulty, is mainly on ice with some mixed climbing difficult to protect; it run for 1100 meters, reaching the summit ridge at 6700. 5 necessary bivouacs, three of which on the wall and the last two on the ridge; a day of rest the first, then the second day the final attack, which occurred facing winds up to 100 kmh.
28 October 2016
Between the end of summer and the first month of Autumn 2016, the high altitude mountaineering has experienced a withering period of extraordinary climbing in Nepal, India and China.
The common characteristics of very different climbs are small teams,alpine style, the search for aesthetic lines, in difficult mixed terrain, with a style and an ethic that recall the golden age (thanks to Stefano Lovison for this happy synthesis) of the 80s and ‘90, a new route vision on steep and technical lines.
Among the expeditions that have achieved extraordinary feats, we have choosen these pair, which we consider particularly significant:
23 May 2016
1976: “the Eagles” of San Martino , Trentino, Italia
The italian Guides “Eagles of San Martino” and the Sherpas
On February,23th 1976 italian expedition of the Eagles of San Martino and Primiero left from Milan to Kathmandu, as follows: Renzo Debertolis expedition leader, Francesco Santon deputy, the Eagles Camillo De Paoli, Gian Paolo De Paoli, Luciano Gadenz, Gian Pietro Scalet, Silvio Simoni, Giampaolo Zortea, Edward Zagonel, mountaineers Sergio Martini and Luigi Henry, Poluzzi Achille medic and writer Alfonso Bernardi assistant and author of the chronicle of those moments in the book “Trentini on Dhaulagiri 8172 m.”
02 April 2016
December, 1975: Alfonso Bernardi shots Dhaulagiri North flanks, NW ridge and buttress from a Pilatus Porter , as a member of next Italian Expedition Aquile del Trentino, 1976
07 March 2016
This is a preview of a series of pictures, dated late 1975; an aerial reconnaissance of the mountain before the italian expedition of Aquile del Trentino , spring 1976. The Author was a member of that expedition as Scientific Director and Writer
Dhaulagiri ,North East Buttress. Approx 5000 mt., Pilatus Porter - aerial reconnaissance by Alfonso Bernardi
