Guide
12 March 2021
story of a hidden Karakorum valley surrounded by beautiful granite walls
by Matteo Bedendo - photographer, climber / edit Federico Bernardi (c) MontagnaMagica
The Karakorum, in the collective imagination is often associated with the great peaks that rise along the Baltoro Glacier, the scene of epic expeditions and climbs since the early 1900s.
K2, Gasherbrums, Broad Peak, Chogolisa and Trango Towers, Laila Peak: the mountains that bring to mind great challenges of the past and present.
21 September 2018
marco and 3 cime of lavaredo,dolomites
Marco Milanese, from Friuli, born in 1987, studied at the Liceo Scientifico and at the same time carried out professional experience as a rugby player. He started Forestry Sciences, then the mountain “called” him : he then became an Alpine Mountain Guide since 2011, slackliner from 2013, base jumper, wing pilot and speedflyer since 2014.
Marco is getting noticed, since a couple of years, for his very interesting adventures that have had a good echo on social media: he’s not like a compulsive video poster, but in its adventures it is always present a character of experimentation or exploration in the broadest sense, such as the base jump from the Bell Tower of Val Montanaia, the speedflying of a volcano, a trip to Turkey with many base and wingsuit jumps and highlines ; his most recent feat, realized in late August was the freesolo climb of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in Dolomites, with descent through base and wingsuit base jump from all three peaks.
The following is an interview that has kindly released us - and hopefully will make you understand more deeply the path, the motivations, the emotions that Marco Milanese puts into play in his intense life between Earth and Heaven, looking for a Equilibrium.
Marco : Your progression, your path in balance between climbing and jumping, is something really impressive. By reading your resumé, I have the idea of a kind of monk, because the extensive and fast training in the individual disciplines you have faced, considering the complexity and hardness in managing each one of them. Is that it? Do you have a common methodical approach on all your projects? And if so, what are your greatest difficulties, the limits that you recognize ?
23 May 2016
1976: “the Eagles” of San Martino , Trentino, Italia
The italian Guides “Eagles of San Martino” and the Sherpas
On February,23th 1976 italian expedition of the Eagles of San Martino and Primiero left from Milan to Kathmandu, as follows: Renzo Debertolis expedition leader, Francesco Santon deputy, the Eagles Camillo De Paoli, Gian Paolo De Paoli, Luciano Gadenz, Gian Pietro Scalet, Silvio Simoni, Giampaolo Zortea, Edward Zagonel, mountaineers Sergio Martini and Luigi Henry, Poluzzi Achille medic and writer Alfonso Bernardi assistant and author of the chronicle of those moments in the book “Trentini on Dhaulagiri 8172 m.”
06 March 2016
Leonard Carrel 1871-1940
Son of Jean-Antoine , “il Bersagliere”, “THE Matterhorn Guide”, an extraordinary career and a Guide of strong ethical values
Carriera
- 56 Matterhorn Ascents
- 40 years as an alpine guide
- first ascents on various Mte Rosa routes
- ascents on Pennine Alps and Bern Alps
LEONARD CARREL
Son of the illustrious Jean-Antoine, “the Matterhorn Guide” par excellence; appointed bearer May 20, 1894, and guide June 19, 1899, carried out his mountaineering activities up to 1939, climbing the Matterhorn fifty-six times, and making ascents in the Monte Rosa massif and the highest peaks of the Pennine and Bernese Alps. On April 10 1904, with mountaineer Gabriel De Bottini and the other guide Valtournanche Abel Pession, he did make the first ascent of Mont Avi or Au (3,006 meters, Valle d’Aosta) to the south ridge; in 1938, at sixty-seven, yet he made the ascent of the Breithorn (4165 meters). He died in Cervinia on December 24 1940.
