Montagna Magica

Alpi

The Perfect Route : Daniele Nardi's posthumous Book

THE PERFECT ROUTE

The book : Review

“The Perfect Way / Nanga Parbat : Mummery Spur” is the posthumous book by Daniele Nardi, written with Alessandra Carati (writer, editor and screenwriter) released in November 2019 for Einaudi , available only in italian edition.

The tragic death of the italian mountaineer and his English partner Tom Ballard at the end of February 2019 on the Mummery Spur of Nanga Parbat, has transformed what was to be the story of a long journey towards a dream, into an intimate autobiography, full of self-criticism, sincere and conscious, raw in the contradictions and bitter in the narrative of conflicts and recriminations with others ; at the same time, full of an unstoppable passion, full of love for his wife, friendship, esteem and respect towards the mountaineers with whom Daniele Nardi shared challenging climbs, successes and failures. A story full of falls and subsequent redemptions, against adversity far more fearsome than some Himalayan wall : diseases, both physical as psychic. All of this, narrated between mountaineering feats of increasing thickness, maybe not outstanding but often in remote environments, with real exploration, especially on less famous but iconic and difficult peaks between 6000 or 7000 meters, both in Karakorum as in Himalaya.

Gasherbrum IV Training

1958 : Cassin and Bonatti Revenge

g4 campo combe maudite 1

The Gasherbrum IV italian team, lead by Cassin with Walter Bonatti, Carlo Mauri, Toni Gobbi, Giuseppe Oberto, Bepi De Francesch and Fosco Maraini as photo video operator and writer. These pics are related to the training on Combe Maudite, Mont Blanc Massif.

Primary Link | Secondary Link

spedizione

Mauri,Gobbi,Oberto,Cassin,Bonatti and Fosco Maraini

Leonard Carrel: a Matterhorn Guide

Leonard Carrel 1871-1940 Leonard Carrel - Guida del Cervino, 1930 Son of Jean-Antoine , “il Bersagliere”, “THE Matterhorn Guide”, an extraordinary career and a Guide of strong ethical values

Leonard Carrel, guida Cervino - Capanna Jurneaux 1930


Carriera

LEONARD CARREL

Son of the illustrious Jean-Antoine, “the Matterhorn Guide” par excellence; appointed bearer May 20, 1894, and guide June 19, 1899, carried out his mountaineering activities up to 1939, climbing the Matterhorn fifty-six times, and making ascents in the Monte Rosa massif and the highest peaks of the Pennine and Bernese Alps. On April 10 1904, with mountaineer Gabriel De Bottini and the other guide Valtournanche Abel Pession, he did make the first ascent of Mont Avi or Au (3,006 meters, Valle d’Aosta) to the south ridge; in 1938, at sixty-seven, yet he made the ascent of the Breithorn (4165 meters). He died in Cervinia on December 24 1940.